North Country Trail - Allegheny National Forest hike cut short.

With a mutual feeling of disappointment and accomplishment, I made the wise, yet painful, decision to end my thru-hike after only two days on the trail.  The primary culprit was my left knee, which showed no remorse in delivering an increasing measure of substantial pain.  I yield.

The hike started as planned, with the small exception of the weather.  Cash and I set out on the trail near Willow Bay at 11:30 AM.  Fully packed and prepared with all my gear and provisions, I was ready for anything.  We marched deep into the woods, as the rain grew heavier and more persistent.  After two hours, my boots and my entire pack were soaked.  We walked for 10 miles that day, setting up camp (in the rain) near the Allegheny Reservoir.  I managed to get a small fire going, but it was to no avail, since the rain kept up and there was little wood to be of much use.  My knee had begun to hurt, and it soon was very dark.  Cash and I huddled inside the tent and listened to the rain pour down on top of us.

In the morning, the rain had become less fierce, allowing us a chance to pack up our campsite and hit the trail.  My knee hurt from the onset, but we hiked nonetheless.  There was no cell phone reception, or way to contact anyone if I stayed in one place. Onward we hiked, through a myriad of different terrains and landscapes.  Through dense forests of pine, to fields of cattails , to peaceful forest streams.  The scenery was damp, but no less amazing.  The fall season had tinted the entire forest with hues of ochre, crimson, and gold.  

By the time we made it to Red Bridge, it was 6:00 PM.  My phone had died and, despite the symbolic indicator on the map, there was no payphone.  Fortunately, we found an electrical outlet in the campground and charged the phone for a bit.  No signal yet, but at least some power to last us until we found one.  By this time, I had decided to call it quits.  The pain was too great to bear. Even with my enthusiastic optimism, I couldn't get past the fact that I was nearly unable to walk.

We made it to a location that allowed us the first cell phone reception of the day, and in the nick of time.  I called my Dad, who said he would pick us up in about an hour.  I only had enough battery charge left for one last effort - a text message to my wife to let her know we were safe.  We sat by the bridge on a desolate stretch of Route 321 and waited.  Soon, it was dark.  Darkness turned into blackness and then the cold rain started.  Cold and pain wracked my body while I prayed for respite from my condition.  Then, the headlights appeared.  True to his word, Dad had found us on the side of the highway, shivering in the cold autumn night.  Before long, we were back at the house, sharing hamburgers and laughing about my misadventure.

Overall, I hiked about 30 miles in two days.  Not a bad start.  I learned that even though my gear might be up to the test of 7 days in the woods, my knees were not.  I had overlooked my physical limitations.  Hiking for eight miles once a week is much different than 17 miles everyday.  Furthermore, I never hike with a pack over 10 pounds, and I was ill-prepared for the 45-pound bohemoth that I was attempting to carry.    I vow to not look upon this experiment as a failure, but merely as a lesson in better preparation and planning.   Next time, maybe a shorter trek with fewer nights...and somebody else to help carry the gear.  And robot knees!  

Hike on.

Gear list for NCT-ANF hike 2010

Soon, I will be taking on my biggest hiking challenge yet:  The Allegheny National Forest segment of the North Country Trail.  I have always dreamed of hiking the AT or NCT in a thru-hike.  However, since I have a job and other imminent responsibilities, I cannot simply take six or more months' vacation to hike one of these  tremendous trails.  Fortunately, I am blessed to live in Pennsylvania, which hosts portions of BOTH the NCT and the AT.  Only New York can claim that same title.

The North Country Trail is a work-in-progress that will become, when finished, the longest footpath in the U.S., nearly twice the length of the Appalachian Trail.  Some segments are still under construction, but the ANF segment is completely finished.  This 96.3 mile trek goes from the New York State border to the Southern edge of the ANF, near Marienville, PA.

I will be writing extensively about my trip when I get back, along with posting my (hopefully) amazing pictures.  This hike will take seven days and will be a true adventure in the wilderness.  For now, I will be publishing a series of entries about my preparation for the hike.  First, and most essential, is my gear.
Pack/Tent/Sleeping system
backpack - GoLite Quest (3 lbs, 4500 cc)
tent - Eureka Apex 2
sleeping bag - Wenger Zermatt (synthetic)

Really, everything else is minor. If you have any questions about my gear, please feel free to post a comment.  I will gladly tell you what I will be carrying.  I may post a complete list in the future, but I'm hesitant to write one now due to the great possibility for additions/omissions once the packing process is underway.

Hike on.

Changes to pre-blog hike entries

Prior to the start of this blog, I had already completed five of the hikes listed in Tom Thwaites' book.  This entry originally appeared at the start of my blog, but I decided to repost it here.  This entry has been rewritten to reflect some recently acquired photos (from my old cell phone) from McConnell's Mill.   I have posted the pictures from those hikes.  I also wanted to change the format for the pre-blog hike entries to make them more consistent with the current ones.   I still have no pictures of Blue Hole Creek. You still have to take my word for it that I was there.

Hike on.

Hike 14 - Bear Run Nature Reserve - 8.8 miles

On Friday, my only day off in the middle of a seven-day stretch, I decided to tackle the lengthy 8.8 mile loop that is the Bear Run Nature Reserve.  This area is just north of Ohiopyle, where I stopped in the morning to pick up some snacks for the trek.  Bear Run is owned by the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy, who also manages Fallingwater, located conveniently next door.  (More on this later...)

The parking area for this hike is both large and well-marked.  There are also two large maps detailing all of the trails that can be found in Bear Run. A pocket that advertised "free hiking maps" was empty.  Fortunately, I had brought my own. Since dropping my copy of 50 Hikes in the creek during Hike 13, I now only carry a photocopy of the two relevant pages containing the hike description and the all-important map.  GPS is great, but batteries don't last forever.  A hardcopy map is a smart backup.

Setting out from the parking lot, both dogs and I plunged into the forest. We walked through a pine tree plantation, easily identifiable due to the perfectly spaced rows of tall pine trees. It's an unreal environment, like something out of the Matrix - a computer-generated forest built according to mathematical symmetry and rigid lines.  See photo.

After that, we passed through lots of rhododendrons as we made our way uphill along the Ridge Trail. This hike traverses several different trails, but all the junctions are nicely marked and the guide is easy to follow.  It was at this point that we heard what we thought was a bear.  I have been hiking the Laurel Highlands for quite a while now, and this was the first time I truly thought I might encounter a bear.  There is no alertness more acute than what one experiences in the forest, alone and listening.  No bear, though.  Whew.

As we made it to the top of the ridge, the trail levelled off and we had easy hiking along the Laurel Run Trail.  There are two nice overlooks of the Youghiogheny River, as well as two backcountry campsites along the path we took.  There are five campsites total in the BRNR, which can be reserved ahead of time.  Not a bad place for an overnighter.

Around this time in our hike, only a mile from the car, Red ran away (again).  I played it cool and kept making my way back to the car, assured that he would meet up with us sooner or later.  However, there was no sign of him.  At the car, I unloaded my gear and got Cash situated inside.  Now to find Red...  We drove up and down the gravel access road that ended our hike, but no Red.  On a hunch, I drove down the main road, looking for Red wandering along the side of the highway, but again, no dog.  I made my way to the security gate at Fallingwater and asked if anyone there had seen a dog wandering around.  "No," the man in the booth said.  "Wait a minute..." and got on the radio.  After some dialogue, which I could not hear, he told me that I would have to talk to the head of security (who was standing nearby).  

The security chief was a very nice guy who told me that yes, there was a dog found "down by the house."  I said, "THE house? Fallingwater?"  "Yep," said the security chief, "he was wandering around the house and the folks on the tour spotted him.  One of our maintenance guys took him home."

I was both shocked and relieved, having found my dog.  He went to Fallingwater, Frank Lloyd Wright's most famous building, didn't pay admission, disrupted the tour and went home with a stranger.  Aaaaghhhh!!!

After a short call to Ben, the maintenance guy who was nice enough to take care of Red, it was only a few minutes before they both showed up in a pickup (Red LOVES trucks!), and I was reunited with my dog.  He acted as though he had been on a great adventure.  "Dad, I had a blast!  There was this really cool house in the woods, and a stream running right underneath it, and lots of great stuff for a dog!  Then I went to this guy's house.  Do I get a treat or what?"

A big THANK YOU! to the staff of Fallingwater for helping me get my dog back.  Ben, I really appreciate your generosity in taking Red to your home and making sure that he was safe.  I cannot tell you how much your selfless and compassionate behavior meant to me.  This act of kindness is just the kind of thing we need more of in the world.         

Not sure that I can risk hiking with Red anymore, but I'm glad that he had the time of his life. 

The Kaufmann's would have chuckled, too, I'm sure.

Hike on.

Hike 6 - Charles F. Lewis Natural Arera - 5.0 miles

The hiker is back!  Today, I took my dog, Cash, on a 5-miler through the Charles F. Lewis Natural Area.  This was a great day for a hike.  The weather was a bit warm, but the hike was nearly all in the shade under the canopy of trees.  The trailhead was easy to find on PA 403, just a few miles south of Rt.22.  I must say, this was probably one of the nicest parking areas for a trailhead that I have seen thus far.  I forgot my camera, however, so I'm sorry that I have no pictures to show you.

This hike is a straightforward loop hike.  After about a hundred feet into the woods, the trail splits in two.  We followed the nicely-blazed trail to the right.  This first portion of the hike was the most difficult.  It goes steeply uphill for a mile or so, then only kind of steep for the next mile.  By the time we got to the first power line clearing (and our first scenic view of the Conemaugh Gorge), we were ready for a break.  From here until the last 1/2 mile its a pretty even grade.  No major up or down segments. 

The trail recrossed the power line clearing again after we completed the far side of the trail loop.  Time for a little geocaching!  I have recently acquired a Garmin Oregon 450, which got broken in today by helping me find a nifty little geocache, about 200 feet into the bush from the main trail.  I was able to mark the trail as a waypoint, saving me lots of time searching around for the trail on my way back.  I located the cache after a thorough search  of the nearby hollow trees.  Cash and I rested while I examined its contents.  I left a message in the notebook that I found, along with a blue lighter from my pack.  Hopefully it will come in handy for some cold individual down the road. 

Having officially geocached for the first time, we used the GPS to find our way back to then trail.  200 feet doesn't sound very far, but when the brush is thick and you can't see any recognizable land features, it can be very confusing.  Even an experienced hiker can wind up going in circles.

Back on the trail we had smooth sailing for the next mile or so. 

Then the rocks showed up.

It was all rocks for the next 1/2 mile.  Big, obtuse, uneven rocks didn't simply occur on the trail, they WERE the trail!  It was slow and careful (for me, anyways) while we navigated the rocky terrain.  At the end of the rocky section, there was a third and final view of the valley.  There was even a giant boulder to climb to get a better view. 

After a steep, yet brief, downhill section, we arrived back at the original trail junction.  A short walk further led us back to the parking area and our sun baked car. 

Overall, I give this hike an 9/10.  It's a perfect length for a day hike.  It took me 3.5 hours, but I stopped to rest a few times.  Also, the views are really spectacular, despite the fact that some of them include the nuclear power plant in New Florence (yes, it's the same one from the New Florence Game Lands hike!).  Nevertheless, there are three great views and they are all different!  The rocks can be treacherous, so wear your boots and watch out for rattlesnakes.  There's a little stream in the beginning, but no other water sources.  Always remember to bring water, especially if you have a dog with you!

I really enjoyed this hike.  A perfect balance of challenging terrain and easy hiking. This is perhaps the best-marked trail I have seen yet.  I would almost consider it over-marked.  But then again, you can't have too much of a good thing, can you?

Hike on.

Apologies to all of my ardent readers.  Due to a lot of extra work and some weather delays, I haven't been out on the trails as much lately.  Don't worry - I'll be back out there as soon as I can.  My wife and I are busy preparing for a vacation to Alaska, but after that, you can expect lots more action from me. 

Keep watching. Tell your friends.

Thanks for hanging in there.

Hike on.

Hike 3 - Meadow Run - 3.2 miles

Having warmed up with the Ferncliff trail, we drove down 381 for about a mile to the parking lot for the Meadow Run Trail.  This was another crowded parking lot, signifying that we were going to be encountering another popular destination.       

From the car, we took the trail on the far right, uphill through some light forest.  Reaching the top of the hill, we came upon some rocky outcroppings.  The trail followed the boulders downhill to the banks of Meadow Run, then turned sharply to the left and followed it along its edge.

As we hiked along the stream, the boulders to our left seemed to be leaking.  Apparently the water table was somewhere above us, causing water to appear to pour out of the rock. 

Hiking on, we found several fisherman enjoying the swiftly flowing run, along with a few daring swimmers.  Despite our tiring legs, we marched on through a narrow path carved between thickets of rhododendrons, hoping to see the famous natural water slides.  We almost made it. 

Upon reaching the area where the slides were located, we found a nice spot for a rest.  The crowd of people ahead of us was something else, entirely.  Apparently, the local population is quite fond of the free entertainment the slides provide, as no less than 100 people swarmed ahead of us, in and around the river.  Despite the large sign in the parking area that clearly read, "alcoholic beverages prohibited," many bottle and cans could be seen in the hands of the revelers.  Don't get me wrong, I don't disapprove of the occasional adult beverage, only when it's clearly prohibited.  Oh well, the dangerous combination of fast water, slippery rocks and alcohol makes for a Darwinian exhibition at its finest. 

Rather than retrace our steps through the rhododendron jungle, we opted to hike directly up the hill to our left on a little-used path.  In no time we were standing alongside PA 381, needing only to walk the final 0.6 miles back up the road to our car.  This walk was easier than tramping through the woods, but the trade-off for an easier path was a loss of scenery.  Sore and disappointed, we finally arrived at the trail head.

Overall, I give this hike a 5/10.  The hike is a nice path, but it can get muddy and slippery as you travel along the creek bed.  Also, it's a narrow path, with moderate to heavy traffic, depending on the season.  If the weather is nice, plan to see lots of "hikers," -  barefoot river enthusiasts, six-pack in tow, crowding the trail and frolicking in the stream.  Poison ivy is prevalent as well, though not to the degree found in Ferncliff.   Take my advice - avoid the waterslides, and truncate this hike early by taking the left hand turn back to the parking area.  It shortens the hike by a mile or so, but you'll thank me in the end. 

You can't win 'em all.

Hike on.

Hike 2 - Ferncliff Natural Area - 2.1 miles

On Memorial Day, my wife and I, along with our dog, Cash, took a drive to Ohiopyle, where we completed two short hikes, the first of which was the Ferncliff Natural Area.  Ferncliff is located on a peninsula, created by an exaggerated bend in the Youghiogheny River.  The hike follows the Ferncliff Trail, which makes a large loop around the perimeter of this preserved area. 

The parking area is off to the right as you descend PA 381, after the railroad tracks, but before the bridge to the hamlet of Ohiopyle.  This was the most crowded hike I have taken, to date.  No doubt due to the combination of good weather and Memorial Day at a popular tourist spot. 

The hike began easy enough, but the insects were ferocious, causing us to detour quickly to locate bug spray.  I normally carry it with me, but today, I had forgotten it.  Big mistake.  The resident mosquito population found my wife to be especially tasty, leaving a reminder of itchy bumps on her arms and legs . 

With errand completed, and bug spray thoroughly applied, we began our hike.  There is a bike trail that begins at the trailhead, as well, so mountain bikes are everywhere.  Fortunately, the Ferncliff Trail is still a footpath only, no bikes allowed.  The trail leads up a short path to a stone marker and the start of the loop.  Opting for the left, we followed the trail towards the rushing sounds of the river.  

Upon reaching the river, we turned right and followed the trail along the edge of the water.  This trail is not just rocky, it's all rock.  Sometimes it's wide and flat, sometimes it's narrow.  This is the best that it gets, in terms of views of the river, but the worst as far as crowds go.  As this section is close to the parking lot and gives many opportunities for enjoying the Youghiogheny, it is no wonder why it is a popular destination. 

After a short while, the trail turned uphill into the forest.  Here, the crowd disappeared.  Thankful for some well-received solitude, we followed the trail along the river, which was soon far below us.  Due to an environmental discrepancy, the river drops in elevation by 100 feet over just one mile.  This produces the effect of now being a great distance above the river without much uphill climbing.  

As we hiked through forests of pine and oak, we took the opportunity to view several nice overlooks of the river and its waterfalls.  After a turn to the right, and noticing a bright orange fungus, we passed by a meadow and soon returned to the start of the loop, and then back to our car.

This hike gets a 6/10.  The views are nice, but the crowded beginning is a little annoying.  Don't get me wrong, I encourage all people to visit these trails and enjoy them, just not at the same time.  Also, please don't litter!  Come on, people, it's 2010.  You should know not to litter.  From cigarette butts to potato chip bags to plastic beverage containers, I saw a great deal of litter on the first part of this trail.  It is extremely saddening to see such wanton disrespect for the environment.  These natural areas are a rarity in our state, and will only continue to exist if we preserve them.  Pick up your trash.  

Despite the early crowds, the majority of this hike will afford you some solitude.  The crowds and their litter are seemingly confined to the first portion.  Once you enter the forest, you will encounter far fewer people.  The path is easy to follow and there are several educational displays throughout the trail.  Poison ivy is prevalent, so be aware. We enjoyed this trail, for the most part, as did our dog.  Even though the sun was bright, the canopy of trees gives lots of shade.  A pleasant walk in the woods, indeed.      

Hike 36 - Beechwood Nature Trails - 2.5 miles

Over Memorial Day weekend, during which I unfortunately had to work, I still managed to complete three more hikes.  Even though the paths chosen were significantly shorter than most previous efforts, new challenges and opportunities were discovered nonetheless. 

On Sunday, I received a phone call from my wife, Jackie, asking if I wanted to go hiking after work.  You don't have to guess my reply.  We had decided to hike the short, but hopefully scenic, Beechwood Nature Trails, just north of the city in the Fox Chapel area.  At around 7:30, we arrived at our destination.  The GPS was more than efficient at getting us there, but we probably wouldn't have needed it anyway.  For those of you familiar with Pittsburgh, the Beechwood Farms Nature Reserve is located on Dorseyville road, just south of its intersection with Harts Run Road. 

We easily found a parking spot and began trekking along the Oak Forest Trail.  There are a half-dozen or so trails that wind throughout the area and the junctions are posted clearly.  However, one could easily get lost without a map or directions.  Two and a half miles isn't a very long way to walk, but within seconds, the parking lot disappears and you are surrounded by forest.  It is very easy to become disoriented in such circumstances, especially as it was for us since it would be getting dark soon.

As the sunset began, so did out walk along a meadow full of wildflowers, then past a pavilion of sorts near a lake that featured a few ducks and a memorial to an area bird-watcher.  Onward and uphill, we passed through  some light forest and then downhill until we came to an old roadway.  There are quite a few benches in the first sections of these trails, offering scenic spots to sit and rest - or solicit a kiss.

Following the directions in 50 hikes in Western Pennsylvania, we turned right onto the Spring Hollow Trail, then came to a junction with Woodland Trail.  The book says here to "continue ahead on Woodland Trail," but it fails to mention which way.  One can either go straight or to the left, both of which are signed as Woodland Trail.  We opted for the left, which, in hindsight, was probably not the author's intention.  However, it did lead us to the next scheduled junction.  We found Meadow View Trail, then followed it to Pine Hollow Trail, which led us across a private roadway, then deeper into the forest.

By now it was beginning to get quite dark.  The sun's light was still visible above, but the sun, itself, had already sunk below the horizon.  The twilight was upon us and we weren't sure how much longer we would have until the light faded away completely.  With our eyes becoming adjusted to the dim conditions, we plodded onward, following the trail back up the hillside and across the private roadway once again.  Soon enough, we turned right on Meadow View Trail, then right on Spring Hollow Trail, leading us down a wide pathway which brought us, sooner than expected, to the parking lot. 

Hiking at dusk has its merits.  The weather is cooler, the bugs are less active, and the trails are less crowded.  However, all three of these will do you no good if you are lost in the woods in the dark.  Even though this was a short trail, we were sufficiently deep into the wilderness to be cut off from all visible civilization.  I thought that we would be able to hike the 2.5 mile loop in about an hour or so, but it took a little while longer than expected.  Should have brought a flashlight.

I give this one a 7/10.  It's a nice hike, and not too long.  Would be great for kids and dogs, but one of these is not permitted (i.e. no dogs allowed).  The nature center was closed when we went, but it seems like it would be a fitting accompaniment to the trail.  The various paths and their junctions are well-marked, but I would still recommend taking a map.  Even though it's a shorter venture, give yourself plenty of time.  There are a lot of things to see (while it's light out) and many places to stop and admire this enclave of nature. 

But bring a flashlight, just in case.

   

Hike 13 - Roaring Run Natural Area - 8.2 miles

Refreshed from a few days of moderate rest, I decided to hike again on Thursday.  The weather could not have been better for a wooded journey as I returned, once again, to the Donegal area for my fifth hike in the Laurel Highlands.  Maybe the sixth.  I am beginning to lose count. 

The destination was the Roaring Run Natural Area, located quite close to Donegal in the Forbes State Forest.  In the midst of some farmland, there is a small parking area at the trailhead.  After getting myself and the dogs equipped, we set out down the trail.  The first mile or so of the trail was deceivingly easy to navigate.  It was wide, fairly straight and level, and clear of any encroachments.  This was not to last. 

After that first easy mile, near an unnecessary and environmentally-damaging man-made shelter, we came to our first stream crossing.  The trail follows Roaring Run for about 2.3 miles, criss-crossing it a total of 28 times!  This is not an exaggeration.  Tom Thwaites even counsels would-be hikers to turn back if they can't handle these unavoidable obstacles.  Much like in "Ghostbusters," crossing the streams is risky, but it is the only path to successful completion of the task at hand.  I managed the first two crossings with ease, but the third one found me with wet toes on my right foot.  It was not long before I made my first critical error, choosing a mossy rock for a foothold.  Not long after, a loud "SPLORSH!" could be heard, which echoed through the valley, followed by several emphatic expletives.   My entire right boot was drenched.  It did not take more than six more crossings before my left one was a soggy mess, too.  Even my trusty guidebook found its way into the water at one point!  This part of the hike was the most miserable. Unfortunately, it was due to my own carelessness.

The stream crossings were a significant challenge.  If one was willing to hack their way through a nest of catbriers, sometimes a more suiable spot to cross could be found up or downstream from the trail.  Sometimes, the only dry way to get across was to walk on a suspended log over the rushing stream.  It was like a real-life game of Frogger. 

I suck at Frogger.

With wet boots and dry humor, I finally arrived at a clearing, where I was to leave the Roaring Run Trail and turn left uphill on the Painter Rocks Trail.  This was a great time for a break.  I removed my wet boots and saturated socks, hanging them to dry on my trekking poles.  Basking in the sunlight, the dogs and I took a much-needed rest and enjoyed a snack as we sat waiting for the sun to dry my socks. 

Once my footwear had lost enough moisture to ensure I could hike on with as little discomfort as possible, the three of us set out up the Painter Rocks trail.  The climb was refreshing, and I, at least, was glad to be done with the stream crossings for the time being.  (The dogs could have frolicked in the creek all day.)

After a short venture uphill, we wandered through some dense forest until Red picked up a scent somewhere off the trail that stirred up his Coonhound instincts.  Without looking back, he tore off into the woods.  I called after him, and even tried to follow him, but to no avail.  I had lost my dog in the woods!  Cash and I sat by the trail for a good 20 minutes, waiting for Red to return.  Without any luck, I decided to continue up the trail, hoping that Red would find my scent and come back to me. 

We walked on for a good three miles, passing some established campsites, wild irises and a monument from 1896.  No sign of Red.  Continuing on, we entered a rocky area, which looked as though it may have some good views of the valley below.   Turning around, I saw Red galloping down the path, tongue swinging happily and showing no signs of regret for leaving me stranded.  It must be great to be a dog.

After passing a mile or so of rocky outcroppings, we began to make our descent back into the valley.  The steep switchbacks were merciless, rock-strewn and threatenting an ankle injury at every step.  Carefully, we made it to the valley floor, where our final stream-crossing awaited us.  Soon enough, we were once again on the Roaring Run Trail, heading back toward our car.  It was a long 0.9 miles, but eventually we made it, not much worse for the wear.

Overall, I give this hike an 8/10.  The stream is quite scenic.  As long as you take your time and cross carefully, you can avoid getting your feet wet.  The trail is well marked with yellow blazes (which at one time appear to have been blue) and is easy to follow.  The rocks on Painter Rocks Trail are ubiquitous, so wear your hiking boots.  There is a good deal of catbriers and poison ivy along the trail, so long pants or big socks are a good choice as well.  Although the views from the rocky hilltop were obstructed by lots of vegetation, they would probably be much better in the late fall or winter.  Lastly, you may likely encounter a good deal of hungry mosquitos, so be sure to bring bug spray.   

A second pair of socks isn't a bad idea, either.

Hike on.  

Hike 32 - Hickory Creek Trail - 12.0 miles

It rained on Saturday, but there was no turning back.   The trip had been planned over a month earlier, and though I exhibited a brief hesitation, it was Dad who maintained a carefree attitude, which cemented in my mind that our excursion would be unaffected by any natural obstacle, even rain.

After our short walk through Hearts Content, we shouldered our packs and began our overnight journey on the Hickory Creek Trail. Since the most recent publication of 50 Hikes in Western Pennsylvania, the trail head has been moved. I am not sure of the reason, but the trail head is no longer found at the Hearts Content Picnic Area, but in a newly constructed parking lot about 1/2 mile north. This extends the trail somewhat, adding 0.4 miles to the described trail in Tom Thwaites' book, making this hike an even 12 miles. Despite the rain, the parking lot was hosting several cars besides ours that morning, most from out-of-state.  Clearly this trail is noteworthy in a larger circle than I had supposed.  Having grown up a mere 30 miles away, I never knew it existed until recently.   

Trucking up the initial slope, we meandered past a power line clearing, the last remnant of human technology that we would see along the trail.  Re-entering the woods, we walked along a hillside overlooking a misty valley to our right, giving the wilderness a dreamlike quality as the tall spruces poked their tops through the fog.  In a short while, we encountered the start of the trail loop.  True to my cause, I opted for the author's route and headed to the south.  

So far, the longer trails I have hiked have been woven together from different marked and unmarked trails, gas lines, gravel access roads and other mismatched pieces.  Not that I don't enjoy MacGuyver-ing a trail out of just about any landmark or visible pathway, but it was nice for a change to hike a remote, continuous, marked trail.  The markings on the first section leading up to the loop were white rectangles, like the ones on the Appalachian Trail (a long-term goal of mine), but once the loop began, the blazes became yellow rectangles with a small bar on top, like a lower case "i."  These "i"-blazes are somewhat infrequent, and can be difficult to spot at times.  To avoid getting lost, I would absolutely recommend taking a decent topographic map of the area.  One can be found in the book, and another good map (showing the new trail head) is featured on the Allegheny National Forest's website.   

As our journey progressed deeper into the woods, the rain eased its intensity and we were able to remove our rain gear.  Even though the weather was exceedingly damp, the temperature was right around 70 degrees, making the humidity quite comfortable.  For another hour or so, we marched on and eventually found ourselves hiking across the south slope of a hillside.  The rain picked back up, forcing us to once again don our ponchos.  Soon afterwards, we realized that we had lost the trail entirely!  It did not take long to re-orient ourselves, but there was a bit of backtracking involved.  Much to our dismay, the trail was discovered above us, as we all groaned at the new reality of having to hike uphill.  Not that it was a seriously long or steep climb; but fully-laden with gear in the pouring rain, the effort needed, both mental and physical, to ascend any incline is amplified dramatically.

Though the uphill segment was brief, the rain continued to fall.  By now, my pants, boots and most regrettably, my socks, were soaked through.  Despite any discomfort, we soldiered on, crossing Coon Run and a few of its tributaries. Around this area, according to the book, there are the remains of an old logging camp.  Unfortunately, I was unable to identify such an area.  Oh well. 

After a while we were soon passing through more open territory.  We crossed paths with what appeared to be a Boy Scout troop, travelling the opposite direction. Not much was spoken, save for a brief "hello," as our two fatigued groups continued on our respective ways. Soon, we were swallowed up once again in the belly of the forest.

The sunlight was waning and we knew that only a short while remained before the area would be both wet and dark, so we began to seek out a potential campsite. We passed several established campsites, but they were much too exposed for camping in the heavy rain. Onward, we crossed Jake's Run and turned uphill. After only a slight climb, we came to another crossing and then, finally, to what would become our temporary home for the next 14 hours. Amidst a grove of tall hemlocks, 100 feet (or thereabouts) to the right side of the trail, we found a great spot for our campsite.  We had some significant shelter from the rain, along with plenty of space for our tents.  The hike was over for the day.  Time to finally put my backpacking gear to use.

First and foremost, my dad set about establishing a fire.  Quite a challenge, I thought, due to the rain.  All of the wood on the ground was not merely wet, but saturated with water.  However, much to my relief and amazement, Dad had a sizable fire burning steadily within a few minutes.  Perhaps it was magic, perhaps it was his military experience, perhaps it was the tiny fire-starting log that he had brought, or perhaps it was a little of all three; but Dad, in my mind, had just done the impossible - built a roaring fire in the pouring rain.  I am so proud and thankful to have a guy like that for my dad.

Now that we had fire, that most basic element of human survival, Jacob and I quickly set up the tents and began to dry out our wet gear.  Within minutes, the fire was surrounded by socks, boots and other items mounted on sticks stuck into the ground; steaming totems that reminded us of our efforts.  At about that time, the rain subsided and gave way to a calm, misty twilight.  With the fire ablaze and our clothes (mostly) dry, we could finally get down to business of cooking.   

I pulled up a medium-sized log along the fire pit, and we sat there, the three of us, hungry and tired and still a bit damp.  Dad had brought a Sterno canister, which proved to be inefficient for heating his can of soup.  My backpacking stove, with its propane/isobutane flame, was found to be a better tool for the job.  Ramen noodles were also on the menu, as well as my packet of tuna.  We sat and ate leisurely, enjoying beef jerky, candy bars, and dried fruit as the sun finally dismissed itself and darkness of the forest enveloped our camp.  Sitting around the fire, we discussed the day's hike, laughed with each other, and calculated the next days adventure.  Most importantly, though, we spent some time sitting in silence, gazing into the fire, a primitive instinct from thousands of years ago.  A glowing campfire is the perfect vehicle for silent reflection and contemplation of the deeper matters of the human experience.  Nowhere else is one more likely to find meaningful discussion, an awakening to the spirituality of nature and, most importantly, knowledge of oneself.

The next morning, I restarted the fire, using some leftover hot coals.  The rain had held off through the night and it looked as if the sky was straining to wriggle out of the damp overcoat of its cloudiness.  After a mighty strong cup of coffee (didn't even need a cup!), I went down to the creek with my dad to filter some water for the upcoming hike.  This was my first opportunity to use my Katadyn Hiker filter in the field.  What a wonderful device!  Easy to use, we filtered about 4 liters of water in just a few minutes.  A true outdoor necessity. 

After packing up our gear, we began hiking the remainder of our trip.  By no means were we out of the woods, either literally or figuratively.  We still had a good five or six miles ahead of us.  After a couple of stream crossings and a close encounter with a snake, we made a sharp right and hiked back uphill.  We crossed over the ridge and made our way around the hillside.  The trail continued along the slope for quite some time, dipping into a valley where the trail twisted through some thick brush.   After about three hours of hiking, it was time for a break.  We found a shady spot and rested for a bit.  The biggest question at this point had become "How much further?"  After speculating that the end of the loop was, at most, a half-mile away, we turned the bend to find that it was only 50 feet from our location!  

Turning left at the sign, we began the final 1.4 mile stretch down the trail back to the parking lot.  The weather had become sunny and bright, lending an optimism to the day that was well-received.  Sooner that I expected, we came to the trail head from where we had started the previous day.  

Completing this hike was significant in several ways.  I have now completed 10 of the 50 hikes listed in my book.  This was my first overnight backpack of the year.  Also, it was the first opportunity to use a good portion of my gear in the field.  Most importantly, however, it was very special to me to share this experience with my dad and my brother.  Since I live a solid two-hour drive from my folks, I get to see them less frequently than I would like.  Spending any significant amount of time with them is something that rarely happens nowadays.  I hope we can go backpacking together again soon.  

I must take a moment to thank my parents for their influence on my project.  From an early age, my parents have instilled in me an awareness of and respect for nature.  They taught me to appreciate the sounds of the forest, to care for the environment and to be self-reliant.  Best of all, they encouraged my loves of adventure, the outdoors, and new experiences. Thanks, Mom and Dad!

In rating this hike, I give it a 10/10.  My first perfect score ever!  The trail is well-defined, but integral to the landscape.  Rocks and roots about, so wear your boots.  There are several great views, and plenty of water sources along the trail, along with about five established campsites, so use them if you can.  Also, I would recommend hiking this trail in dry weather, if possible.  The canopy overhead prevents most direct sunlight, so exposure is not much of an issue.  The stream crossings are fairly easy, and the trail is marked well, with the exception of a few spots.  Since the Hickory Creek Area is Pennsylvania's only designated wilderness area, you have excellent chances of seeing wildlife.  We saw tracks of deer and bear, heard the sounds of woodpeckers, and spotted countless chipmunks.  There is even ample parking and free maps at the trail head!  You really can't do much better than this.  Hike on.